OLAPEJU

SUMMER SPRING 2025

noun [ U ]

ọlá-pé-ojú (noun)

- a female name of Yoruba origin translating to ‘where wealth gathers’, and that of Tolu Coker’s Mother, the unbeknown muse of this season.

Named after the designer’s mother, Tolu Coker’s SS25 collection ‘Olapeju’ celebrates the wealth of heritage, cultural capital, and craftsmanship inherent in British-Nigerian identities and immigrant communities. Through a tapestry of garments, shoes, and accessories, the collection honours the personal stories of unsung matriarchs and their role in shaping the British-Nigerian and wider communities of the late 60s and 70s. Continuing her exploration of luxury through the lens of culture and community, Coker’s SS25 collection draws inspiration from her mother’s timeless style and immigration journey from Lagos to London, alongside the designer’s late father’s photography of North Kensington Estates' immigrant life at a time when ‘no blacks, no dogs, no Irish’ signs lined the streets.

Opposed to dwelling on the negativity of the time, Coker focuses on the unity of the community and the joy of family and friends coming together in the intimacy of the home, captured by her late Father, Kayode Coker. A rich blend of these visual archives and memories unfolds into trans-seasonal silhouettes that speak to an ethos of craftsmanship and sustainability. The garments are woven into a narrative of cultural fusion, identity, and community, calling for timeless, versatile pieces that bypass fleeting trends. Silhouettes are sharply tailored, balancing a high cinched waist—reminiscent of Yoruba sartorial codes—with 60s European flair. Equestrian-inspired jackets and jodhpurs-style balloon-hem trousers make subtle nods to the North Kensington Westway Stables, an institute of the North Kensington community founded in the early 70's and a pillar of the community. 60s A-line forms, exaggerated collars, and shortened hemlines elevate the collection's retro-infused aesthetic, while matching co-ord sets, hats and shoes reflect the influence of top-to-toe dressing. Wallpaper-inspired prints mirror the living room wallpaper captured in the background of Tolu’s late Father’s photography, rooting the SS25 collection to the context of the living room.

In true Tolu Coker style, the collection’s storytelling is not just in the clothes but also in its materiality. This season, sustainability continues to take centre stage. Upcycled and deadstock leathers, reclaimed satins with bold 70s-inspired prints, and the brand’s signature upcycled denim houndstooth jacquards, now washed in soft spring pastels, bring a rich textural palette. The collection reaffirms a commitment to heirloom fashion—garments from previous seasons are intricately woven into the runway styling, underscoring the importance of extending the lifespan of clothing by revisiting and reimagining existing wardrobes, rather than discarding them with the next trend cycle. In collaboration with Manolo Blahnik, this collection showcases 28 iconic existing Manolo Blahnik silhouettes and three new boot styles, designed by Coker. These styles reimagine Manolo Blank’s heritage and equestrian codes from the legacy of the Westway Stables, whilst utilising offcuts of deadstock leather from the collection. The collection’s footwear and accessories, including statement hats designed by Coker and crafted by milliner Virna Pasquinelli, complete the "top-to-toe" ensembles that exude sophistication while embodying a timeless, trans-seasonal wardrobe.

OLAPEJU is an ode to British-Nigerian matriarchs—the nucleus of and backbone of family, community, and home. These women are protagonists of the communal gathering spaces, which harbour intimate connections, foster long-lasting relationships and provoke important conversations. Navigating roles that blend tradition, modernity and culture, every piece of the collection is crafted for versatility, empowering the wearer to move confidently across the diverse stages of life as she stands tall empowered in her confidence.

As Coker explains, ‘Clothes are never a commodity by themselves, they belong to an environment, expression and celebration of culture, a documentation of the influence of the past today in the present.’ Through OLAPEJU, the Tolu Coker woman evolves, embracing a liberated and sophisticated style that crosses oceans and generations with trans-Atlantic sensitivity, infusing Lagos with London to craft her own identity. As always, Tolu invites her guests into a world built on personal and collective memories.

The show space transforms into a British-Nigerian living room, paying homage to her late father Kayode Coker’s photography. Walls adorned with 60s-inspired wallpaper projections set the tone, while soft furnishings replace traditional seating, offering an immersive experience into the intimacy of the family home. In this space, fashion and culture converge—inviting conversations about heritage, identity, and the stories that shape us.